Canine Couture

     Gone are the days when I used to dress my dog for every holiday - no more green and red vests with jingle bells for Christmas or black capes for Halloween.  Now it's just sensible garments to protect my doggie from inclement weather.  Mardi's sweater, knitted when she hadn't reached her full growth, was too tight.  It was time to drag out the sewing machine and my collection of scrap fabrics.  Check out the latest in rainwear:

I had a dog coat that was too small.  I laid it out on some brown paper and traced the parts, enlarging it a bit.  Since it was a completed garment, I had to add back the seam allowances.  I made a sample in some old curtain lining.  I had to wing it for the hood.  It took a few fittings (yes, dogs can have fittings) to get things just right.  I took the sample apart and used the hood pieces as a  pattern along with the brown paper pieces.

I used some flowered cotton for the lining.

Here's the hood.  I had some light weight, fabric backed vinyl that I used for the waterproof outer layer.  I was able to press a little bit by setting the iron low and ironing on the fabric side. 

I made the hood, front fastener, and under body fasteners and top-stitched them.  I sewed them to the main piece, all pointing inward as shown.  I took the main lining piece and laid it over this like a sandwich (keep the right sides of the fabric together, facing each other).  I sewed all around the edges, leaving an open section along the back for turning.  After turning right-side-out, I top-stitched all around the main pattern piece.  The last step was to add velcro closures to the tabs.

This is an outside view.

Here is another view showing the lining and the closures.

Now the pooch will be protected from precipitation. 

She also got a winter coat.  If Happy in Hainesport readers recognize the fabric, that's because it was left over from making my ironing board cover (blog entry from 9/28/12).  

   

Home Made Grout Cleaner

     I have a recipe for home made grout cleaner:

          7 cups water
          1/2 cup baking soda
          1/3 cup lemon juice (I used the kind in a bottle)
          1/4 cup white vinegar

     With 1,000 square feet of tile and a muddy, little dog, we have some serious grout cleaning issues here.  I use bleach and hot water for regular mopping.  That keeps most of the grout clean and bright, but there are areas that get especially dirty.  Once I used Soft Scrub®  with bleach on the problem spots.  It did a good job, but I had to rinse several times to get rid of the grit that was left behind.
     Today was product testing day for the do-it-yourself grout cleaner.  I used hot tap water and added the ingredients in the order shown above.  The addition of the lemon juice made the solution fizz.  That's a fun sound.  It happened again when I added the vinegar.  You are supposed to put this concoction in a spray bottle and squirt it on the floor.  Also, it's supposed to soak a few minutes.  I didn't have an extra bottle, and I didn't have time to fool around.  I slopped it on with a rag, waited about one minute, and scrubbed with a stiff bristled brush.  I finished by wiping to absorb the excess liquid.  When the floor dried, I found the baking soda left a film behind, so I had to rinse (only once) with clear water.
     So, how well did this witch's brew do?  I would have to say the results were fair.  The dirty grout lines were cleaner, but not like after the Soft Scrub® treatment.  On the plus side the mixture was non-toxic and odorless.  I didn't scrub very hard, and I only did one quick rinse.  I might try this method again if I had to clean up a trouble spot, and I didn't have much time.
     I'm still on a quest to either find or create the perfect product.  Any suggestions?
             
       

So, the Coneheads Really Did Live in France

     I just read a Yahoo news article.  Archaeologists have found numerous tombs in the Alsace region of France.  One tomb from 363 B.C. contained a woman's skull that was intentionally deformed to be long and pointy.  This practice was reserved for the aristocracy.  They used boards and strips of cloth to shape a baby's skull.

From Yahoo: http://news.yahoo.com/deformed-pointy-skull-dark-ages-unearthed-france-153745595.html

     I always knew they were real.  Check out the Coneheads on Saturday Night Live:

          http://screen.yahoo.com/coneheads-family-feud-000000119.html

I Hate Winter

     I hate winter.  New Jersey winters are not that difficult judged by world standards, but each year they leave me housebound and dreaming about tropical climes.  I hate the dark mornings and early nights.  I shrink from the winds that burn my face.  I detest a new pristine, white snow.  A few days after it falls, it turns black at all the edges.  When the melting between storms is incomplete, one snowfall becomes a frozen base for the next layer of winter's icy insults.
     Winter is on the way, but today is a perfect autumn day.  Cool and crisp, it's jacket weather, my favorite time of the year.  I decided to take the dog to Long Bridge Park.  As we walk, I notice that the trails have narrowed.  The vegetation has flourished this past summer, and it closes in on the walkways, but vines and shrubs have lost their summer vibrancy.  The plants still stand tall, but their crowning glory of flowers has turned wispy and flyaway.  Once winter arrives, these plants will retreat to the earth, seemingly gone.
     Gone, but only until spring arrives.  The plants will return, and so will my good humor.  I'll forget about winter.  I'll revel in the warm days, the greening grass, and the tender sprouts uncurling, breaking the ground's surface.  I'll visit the park in the mornings or evenings until the leaves thicken and block out the sun, and the mosquitoes take over the cool, dark spaces beneath the trees.
     I'll walk in the park during the sunniest hours throughout the summer.  If I walk with Mike, we'll take the trail to the Rancocas Creek where we will hold hands and watch the tide flow.  Sometimes we'll walk to the blinds on the most remote trails and wait for a deer or a fox.  If none shows up, Mike will kiss me, just so standing in a hidden place won't be wasted.  As summer ends, I look forward to fall, my favorite time of the year, and banish any thoughts of the winter that will follow.
     I hate winter, but I love the cycle of the seasons.  The 75/25 ratio of delight to misery is probably right.  There's just enough cold to appreciate the thaw, just enough white to make the green so welcome.  Those extra hours of darkness force me to rest and reflect.  I can use the winter season to deepen my roots and draw nourishment for the times ahead.  In the spring, with another year behind me, I'll hopefully be better and wiser.

When Washing Machines Walk, Part 2

     So why is my washer committed to trying to escape the laundry closet?  Balancing the tub, leveling the machine, and adding rubber feet didn't solve the problem.
     What do other people do, those who don't want to shell out for a repair as expensive as a new machine?  I decided to read some online forums.  The same fix came up several times - replace the springs on the washer's tub.  I discovered that Sears sells Whirlpool replacement parts.  They have a feature on their site which informs that people who replace springs also replace the shock absorbing pads in the assembly that holds the washer's tub.  Then I found Appliance Parts Pros, an online supplier of parts for just about anything.   http://www.appliancepartspros.com/. Their prices are cheaper than Sears, and they provide videos explaining how to install each part they sell.  They have a help line, so I called for assistance reading the washer's exploded parts diagram. Once all my questions were answered, I placed an order and received my parts 48 hours later.
   

Top Row, from Left to Right: Spanner Wrench, Counterbalance Spring, Suspension Springs.
Bottom Row, from Left to Right: First Set of Suspension Pads, Second Set of Suspension Pads, Front Feet. 

First, unplug the appliance and disconnect the water supply.  Then flip up the control panel by wedging a screw driver under the panel and popping the clips.  Disconnect the electrical connections in the panel.  Tip the entire white cabinet outward, and lift it off.  At this point, the back of the washer was top heavy and wobbly.  I supported it by placing a bar stool behind it.  

This is what you have after you remove the cabinet.  There is a metal tub within a plastic tub.  Remove the white, plastic top piece after you take out the agitator.  It comes off easily when you pop the clips.

To remove the agitator, pull out the fabric softener dispenser.

There is a filter cover under the fabric softener dispenser.  It wouldn't budge.  I didn't have enough strength in one hand to pull it out, and there wasn't room for two hands.  I attached two electrical ties and poured in some hot water and vinegar.  I also gently worked a flat head screw driver around the edge of the filter cover.  I grabbed the electrical ties and yanked with both hands.

Success!

The tub is held in place by a spanner nut.  You have to have a spanner wrench to get the nut off, so I bought one with my parts.  The instructional video leads you to believe all you have to do is put the wrench on the nut and rap it a few times.  It took 45 minutes, several applications of penetrating oil, heating with a hairdryer, and lots of banging to get that sucker off.  Once you get the spanner nut off, you lift out the inner, metal tub.   Easier said than done.  The inner tub was frozen in place.  It took lots more penetrating oil, heat, and banging to break it loose.

Now you are left with the plastic tub which is full of soap scum (as was the outside of the metal tub).  I spent a lot of time in the back yard scrubbing the tubs clean.  There is a washer drive block and a couple of clips that have to be removed from the shaft before you can pull the plastic tub off.   But before you lift the tub, you have to disconnect the hoses and clips that hold it in place.

Disconnect the hose to the tub (the top hose).  

You have to disconnect this black hose at the top clamp.  You'll see a clear tube running down the side of the tub.  Disconnect that at the bottom where it attaches to the clear, cup-like thing.

I forgot to photograph the spring removal, so I borrowed this from Appliance Parts Pros.  You'll have to look hard to see the counterbalance spring hiding behind the black hose.  It's a vertical spring attached at the top  to the underside of the tub.  It's attached at the bottom to the back frame of the washer.

There are three suspension springs.  You need a pair of pliers and a strong grip to remove them.  You also have to remove the three clips to which the suspension springs are attached.  Finally, you can lift off the plastic tub.  The picture is from Repair Clinic's YouTube video.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfTpqGI5wkg

Remove the gray, metal shield.  Wow, it had sharp edges.

This is all you have left.  This little pyramid consists of a base, a metal triangle, and the post with three metal arms.  The pads that have to be replaced are hiding between the layers.  You pry the layers apart and spin them to get to the pads.  I needed a helper for this part.

I had to use a screw driver to pop out three of these curved pads.  You need a hammer to pound in the replacement pads. 

You use the same method to replace the three rectangular pads.  Once the new pads are installed, replace the sharp, metal shield and the plastic tub.  Attach the metal clips that hold the suspension springs.  Attach the three new tub suspension springs in place of the old ones.  Attach the new tub counterbalance spring in place of the old one.  Reconnect the hoses.  Put the washer drive block and clips on the agitator shaft.  Put the metal tub on and secure with the spanner nut.  Replace the agitator, filter, and fabric softener dispenser.  Re-attach the white, plastic cover over the two tubs, put the white cabinet back on the machine, re-connect the electrical connections in the control panel, and drop the control panel back into place, snapping in the clips.  

You are almost done.  Level the washer (I decided to replace the front feet because one foot was worn) and connect the water supply.  Turn on the water and check for leaks.  Plug it in and take it for a test wash.

     Did the fix work this time?  Damn skippy, it did.  First, I ran a cycle with just water - no clothes. I didn't want to wring things out by hand if the repair didn't work.  The water only cycle went well, so I loaded it up with dirty, soaked towels and rags from the repair.  Then I did a load of clothes, then another load of towels.  The washer didn't walk.  There was barely any vibration during the spin cycle.  Price of repair - $65.00, a sore back, a few scratches, and a day of my life.

     So, here's how I would sum things up:

When Washing Machines Walk

     We have a Whirlpool washer that started walking at about age two.  I confess, it could have had something to do with the queen sized comforter I tried to wash at home instead of going to the laundromat.  After two years of grabbing and hanging on during spin cycles, I decided try some of those fixes that people have posted on the internet.  Here's how that worked out:

     1. Distributing clothes evenly in the tub and not overloading.  Nope.

     2. Rearranging off balance loads during a cycle.  Nope.

     3. Making sure the washer is level.  Nope.

     4. Swearing most colorfully.  Nope.

     I went to Lowe's to price a new washer.  An eager to please sales associate suggested I try putting some rubbery pads under the washer's feet.  The price of the four pads ($36.26) was outrageous, but cheaper than a new machine.  When she told me I could return the pads for a full refund if they didn't perform as advertised, I took the bait.

The four black rubber pads are made by Shake Away.

This is just some of the damage from the pirouetting washer and flailing hoses.  It's a job for spackle and stain blocker.

I pulled out the plug (didn't want to be electrocuted),  turned off the water supply, then  used an old trash can to catch the water as I disconnected the hoses.  An old towel for wiping up drips is also a must.

You can't see this from my picture, but this plastic housing was installed up-side-down.  It's a little thing, but that little thing has been driving me nuts for the last four years.

I was thrilled to discover that the framework pops off.  I turned it right-side-up, and snapped it back into place.  Having a little more perfect in my life puts me in my happy place. 

Before using the vibration absorbing pads, one has to pre-level the washer.  Do this by tilting the washer back and wedging something under the machine, like boards, to keep it elevated.  Unscrew the feet.

The directions say to raise the screws one inch, but experimentation lead me to discover that 1/2 inch worked best.  Re-install the front feet, remove the boards, gently drop the front of the washer to the floor, and check to see if the front of the washer is level.  You do this by placing a level along the front edge of the machine.  Adjust the nuts to fine tune leveling, if necessary.  Here's where I found conflicting instructions.  My machine's instruction manual stated that once the machine is level, the nuts should be wound down to meet the plastic feet.   A couple of other "how to" sources said to leave the nuts snug,  up next to the washing machine body.  Supposedly, the nuts hold the washer in position, preventing it from dropping down the post (and out of level) as the washer vibrates during use.  I left the washers up, next to the washer's frame.   Leveling the back legs of the washer involves tipping the washer forward about 4 inches.  Just about all washers have self-leveling back feet.  When you tilt the machine forward, you should hear the feet pop and slide down.  Gently lower the back of the washer, and the feet will catch at the point the machine is level.  Check your job by laying a level on the front edge and the right and left side edges.  

The final step is to move the washer into position.  Put one pad under each foot.  Repeat the leveling process for the back legs.  Repeat the entire process, front and back, if necessary.

   
     I know you are dying to know if this worked.  No, it was a miserable failure.  I did a small, perfectly distributed load of wash in my perfectly level washer.  For safety's sake, I hung on as the washer ran through it's spin cycle.  Darned good thing I did because the machine vibrated right off the pads.
     Lowe's gladly refunded my $36.26 plus tax.  I went back to the internet.  Why not give this one more try?  Parts are on the way, and I'm taking a short course in washing machine repair.  I'll get back to you.  

Pears, Cornmeal, and Rosemary

     I just tried a recipe from Real Simple magazine.  It was "real simple," but I made some changes that make it really, really simple.  Here's the link to the original recipe: http://www.realsimple.com/food-recipes/browse-all-recipes/pear-cornmeal-cake-00100000110429/index.html
     Here's an even easier version:

Ingredients

8 tablespoons (1 stick) of regular, salted butter, melted, plus more for the pan.  By using regular butter, you can omit the 1/2 teaspoon of salt called for in the original recipe.

1-1/4 cups all purpose flour

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

2 teaspoons of baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup buttermilk substitution.  There's no need to buy the buttermilk called for in the original recipe.  Put 1/2 tablespoon of white vinegar or lemon juice in a measuring cup.  Add any milk to the 1/2 cup line.  Let sit for 5 minutes.

2 large eggs, whisked

1 - 15 ounce can of sliced pears packed in pear juice.  Separate the pears from the juice.  Reserve the juice in a small sauce pan.  The original recipe calls for 2 fresh pears.  Since rock hard pears take at least a week to ripen, there's too much advanced planning in using fresh fruit.

Fresh or dried rosemary, whatever you have.

Method

I didn't use a springform pan, but I should have.  I used a bundt pan, and that was tricky.  This cake is moist since it is filled with fruit.  It also does not rise very high. Turning it out of any pan, then flipping it back so the top shows invites the possibility of it breaking into pieces.  To keep things most simple, make it in a 9" X 9" glass pan and serve it straight from the pan.

Heat the oven to 350°F.  Butter a 9" X 9" glass baking dish.

Whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and one cup of sugar in a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk together buttermilk substitute, 2 eggs, and melted butter.  Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix.  Fold the sliced, canned pears into the batter.

Transfer the batter to the buttered baking dish.  Bake for about 45 - 55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.  Cool on a wire rack.

Meanwhile,  add about six sprigs of fresh rosemary or about 1-1/2 tablespoons of dried rosemary to the pear juice.  The original recipe directs you to make sugar/water syrup.  Just use the pear juice from the can.  Heat over medium heat to nearly boiling or until the rosemary aroma rises from the pan.  Set aside for 30 minutes (if using dried rosemary) or up to four hours (if using fresh). Remove the sprigs or strain out the dried herb.

While the cake is warm, brush the top with rosemary syrup.  You won't use all of the syrup.

Serve warm or at room temperature.  The original recipe says you can serve with whipped cream, but I don't think you need it.

Photo from Real Simple site by Marcus Nilsson.

       This is delicious.  For those of us watching our cholesterol, it is a bit rich.  Here's how I would make it cholesterol free:

     Instead of 8 tablespoons of melted butter, use 1/2 cup canola oil.  Or fiddle around with a canola/applesauce mixture.  If you must have the buttery taste, use 4 tablespoons butter and 4 tablespoons canola.  Just remember, once you eliminate the salted butter, in whole or in part, you have to add back the salt that the original recipe calls for to avoid a bland taste.

     Instead of buttering the pan, use cooking spray.

     Use fat free milk for making the buttermilk substitute.  You can also use real buttermilk because it is virtually fat free.

     Use 1/3 cup of egg white instead of 2 whole eggs.

     Now, if you want an insanely simple version of this cake, maybe this would work:

     Mix up one or two boxes of Jiffy® corn muffin mix according to the directions on the package. Mix in some or all of a 15 ounce can of drained, sliced pears.  Pour into a greased baking dish and bake at 350° F until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.  Prepare the rosemary syrup as explained above and brush it on the cake.  Might just work.