So why is my washer committed to trying to escape the laundry closet? Balancing the tub, leveling the machine, and adding rubber feet didn't solve the problem.
What do other people do, those who don't want to shell out for a repair as expensive as a new machine? I decided to read some online forums. The same fix came up several times - replace the springs on the washer's tub. I discovered that Sears sells Whirlpool replacement parts. They have a feature on their site which informs that people who replace springs also replace the shock absorbing pads in the assembly that holds the washer's tub. Then I found Appliance Parts Pros, an online supplier of parts for just about anything.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/. Their prices are cheaper than Sears, and they provide videos explaining how to install each part they sell. They have a help line, so I called for assistance reading the washer's exploded parts diagram. Once all my questions were answered, I placed an order and received my parts 48 hours later.
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Top Row, from Left to Right: Spanner Wrench, Counterbalance Spring, Suspension Springs.
Bottom Row, from Left to Right: First Set of Suspension Pads, Second Set of Suspension Pads, Front Feet. |
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First, unplug the appliance and disconnect the water supply. Then flip up the control panel by wedging a screw driver under the panel and popping the clips. Disconnect the electrical connections in the panel. Tip the entire white cabinet outward, and lift it off. At this point, the back of the washer was top heavy and wobbly. I supported it by placing a bar stool behind it. |
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This is what you have after you remove the cabinet. There is a metal tub within a plastic tub. Remove the white, plastic top piece after you take out the agitator. It comes off easily when you pop the clips. |
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To remove the agitator, pull out the fabric softener dispenser. |
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There is a filter cover under the fabric softener dispenser. It wouldn't budge. I didn't have enough strength in one hand to pull it out, and there wasn't room for two hands. I attached two electrical ties and poured in some hot water and vinegar. I also gently worked a flat head screw driver around the edge of the filter cover. I grabbed the electrical ties and yanked with both hands. |
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Success! |
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The tub is held in place by a spanner nut. You have to have a spanner wrench to get the nut off, so I bought one with my parts. The instructional video leads you to believe all you have to do is put the wrench on the nut and rap it a few times. It took 45 minutes, several applications of penetrating oil, heating with a hairdryer, and lots of banging to get that sucker off. Once you get the spanner nut off, you lift out the inner, metal tub. Easier said than done. The inner tub was frozen in place. It took lots more penetrating oil, heat, and banging to break it loose. |
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Now you are left with the plastic tub which is full of soap scum (as was the outside of the metal tub). I spent a lot of time in the back yard scrubbing the tubs clean. There is a washer drive block and a couple of clips that have to be removed from the shaft before you can pull the plastic tub off. But before you lift the tub, you have to disconnect the hoses and clips that hold it in place. |
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Disconnect the hose to the tub (the top hose). |
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You have to disconnect this black hose at the top clamp. You'll see a clear tube running down the side of the tub. Disconnect that at the bottom where it attaches to the clear, cup-like thing. |
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I forgot to photograph the spring removal, so I borrowed this from Appliance Parts Pros. You'll have to look hard to see the counterbalance spring hiding behind the black hose. It's a vertical spring attached at the top to the underside of the tub. It's attached at the bottom to the back frame of the washer. |
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There are three suspension springs. You need a pair of pliers and a strong grip to remove them. You also have to remove the three clips to which the suspension springs are attached. Finally, you can lift off the plastic tub. The picture is from Repair Clinic's YouTube video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfTpqGI5wkg |
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Remove the gray, metal shield. Wow, it had sharp edges. |
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This is all you have left. This little pyramid consists of a base, a metal triangle, and the post with three metal arms. The pads that have to be replaced are hiding between the layers. You pry the layers apart and spin them to get to the pads. I needed a helper for this part. |
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I had to use a screw driver to pop out three of these curved pads. You need a hammer to pound in the replacement pads. |
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You use the same method to replace the three rectangular pads. Once the new pads are installed, replace the sharp, metal shield and the plastic tub. Attach the metal clips that hold the suspension springs. Attach the three new tub suspension springs in place of the old ones. Attach the new tub counterbalance spring in place of the old one. Reconnect the hoses. Put the washer drive block and clips on the agitator shaft. Put the metal tub on and secure with the spanner nut. Replace the agitator, filter, and fabric softener dispenser. Re-attach the white, plastic cover over the two tubs, put the white cabinet back on the machine, re-connect the electrical connections in the control panel, and drop the control panel back into place, snapping in the clips. |
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You are almost done. Level the washer (I decided to replace the front feet because one foot was worn) and connect the water supply. Turn on the water and check for leaks. Plug it in and take it for a test wash. |
Did the fix work this time? Damn skippy, it did. First, I ran a cycle with just water - no clothes. I didn't want to wring things out by hand if the repair didn't work. The water only cycle went well, so I loaded it up with dirty, soaked towels and rags from the repair. Then I did a load of clothes, then another load of towels. The washer didn't walk. There was barely any vibration during the spin cycle. Price of repair - $65.00, a sore back, a few scratches, and a day of my life.
So, here's how I would sum things up:
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