We have a Whirlpool washer that started walking at about age two. I confess, it could have had something to do with the queen sized comforter I tried to wash at home instead of going to the laundromat. After two years of grabbing and hanging on during spin cycles, I decided try some of those fixes that people have posted on the internet. Here's how that worked out:
1. Distributing clothes evenly in the tub and not overloading. Nope.
2. Rearranging off balance loads during a cycle. Nope.
3. Making sure the washer is level. Nope.
4. Swearing most colorfully. Nope.
I went to Lowe's to price a new washer. An eager to please sales associate suggested I try putting some rubbery pads under the washer's feet. The price of the four pads ($36.26) was outrageous, but cheaper than a new machine. When she told me I could return the pads for a full refund if they didn't perform as advertised, I took the bait.
 |
| The four black rubber pads are made by Shake Away. |
 |
| This is just some of the damage from the pirouetting washer and flailing hoses. It's a job for spackle and stain blocker. |
 |
| I pulled out the plug (didn't want to be electrocuted), turned off the water supply, then used an old trash can to catch the water as I disconnected the hoses. An old towel for wiping up drips is also a must. |
 |
| You can't see this from my picture, but this plastic housing was installed up-side-down. It's a little thing, but that little thing has been driving me nuts for the last four years. |
 |
| I was thrilled to discover that the framework pops off. I turned it right-side-up, and snapped it back into place. Having a little more perfect in my life puts me in my happy place. |
 |
| Before using the vibration absorbing pads, one has to pre-level the washer. Do this by tilting the washer back and wedging something under the machine, like boards, to keep it elevated. Unscrew the feet. |
 |
| The directions say to raise the screws one inch, but experimentation lead me to discover that 1/2 inch worked best. Re-install the front feet, remove the boards, gently drop the front of the washer to the floor, and check to see if the front of the washer is level. You do this by placing a level along the front edge of the machine. Adjust the nuts to fine tune leveling, if necessary. Here's where I found conflicting instructions. My machine's instruction manual stated that once the machine is level, the nuts should be wound down to meet the plastic feet. A couple of other "how to" sources said to leave the nuts snug, up next to the washing machine body. Supposedly, the nuts hold the washer in position, preventing it from dropping down the post (and out of level) as the washer vibrates during use. I left the washers up, next to the washer's frame. Leveling the back legs of the washer involves tipping the washer forward about 4 inches. Just about all washers have self-leveling back feet. When you tilt the machine forward, you should hear the feet pop and slide down. Gently lower the back of the washer, and the feet will catch at the point the machine is level. Check your job by laying a level on the front edge and the right and left side edges. |
 |
| The final step is to move the washer into position. Put one pad under each foot. Repeat the leveling process for the back legs. Repeat the entire process, front and back, if necessary. |
I know you are dying to know if this worked. No, it was a miserable failure. I did a small, perfectly distributed load of wash in my perfectly level washer. For safety's sake, I hung on as the washer ran through it's spin cycle. Darned good thing I did because the machine vibrated right off the pads.
Lowe's gladly refunded my $36.26 plus tax. I went back to the internet. Why not give this one more try? Parts are on the way, and I'm taking a short course in washing machine repair. I'll get back to you.
No comments:
Post a Comment